Kurkdjian’s famed laundry musks (wonderfully used in his incredible OUD) are present right from the beginning, and they are put to very good use. What we have at Aqua Universalis’ core is a big white and green dose of muguet that links the citrus and musks seamlessly whilst adding it’s own, slightly dirty dose of indole that reminds you that what you’re wearing is a perfume NOT an aura of clean. The floral quality of Aqua Universalis took me by surprise, mainly because I was expecting all citrus and musk, and nothing in-between. It gives the impression of lemons being squeezed over ice. It’s so zingy in fact, that my tastebuds rush and convulse in my mouth. I’ve noticed that when describing citrus top notes I often uses lively adjectives such as “sparkling”, “effervescent” and “shimmering”, so please forgive me when I say that the opening of Aqua Universalis is swimming with shimmering (sorry), mouthwatering bergamot and lemon. An exquisite sense of freshness in a musky and floral eau de toilette.”īergamot and Lemon from Sicily, White Bouquet (Lily of the Valley and Sweet Mock Orange) and Light and Musky Wood “A fragrance that is quite simply luminous. Aqua Universalis is not one of these fragrances, it is an intelligent and natural take on ‘clean’ that most importantly still smells like a perfume. Made to fulfil the average consumer’s desire to feel clean and shower fresh, a style of fragrance that very often ends up producing cocktails of vile, strong musks and calone that sends fumenerds heading for the hills. With his ‘Maison’ Kurkdjian is selling a completely scented lifestyle like no other.Īqua Universalis is Kurkdjian’s take on the much maligned genre of laundry clean fragrances. The house provides an ‘all for one’ fragrant shopping experience with fragrances for the morning and evening, and wonderful scented things for the body (leather bracelets et al) and the home (candles, incense papers, laundry detergents and scented bubbles). If you’re not familiar with the idea behind über talented perfumer Francis Kurkdjian’s solo project then you should get to familiarising yourself pretty quick because you’re missing out. I have found that it’s always best to go for something relatively low key that is still perfume-y enough to let people know that you mean business, and what do you know a few days before my first day just the thing landed on my doorstep – Aqua Universalis by Maison Francis Kurkdjian. So why not just where whatever I fancy on day one? Well the thing is, when entering a new environment it is important for one to ease people in gently, it does not pay to projectile vomit ones personality in people’s general direction. Now like any sane fume-nerd my initial though on gaining new employment was “what perfume am I going to wear on my first day?!” That’s right, not “will I like the job?” or even “what shall I wear”, it was, as it always is, all about the perfume. Last week, after six weeks of painful but also enjoyable unemployment, I started a brand new, and very exciting job (hence the lack of posts).
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